Chapter 6

Published on 18 April 2026 at 16:48

Hi peeps, Easter weekend at Lake Argyle — solo, still, and exactly what this little Boomerang needed.

Leaving Halls Creek mid-morning, I took my time cruising through that wide, open Kimberley landscape. No rush, just me, the road, and that feeling you get when you know something special is waiting at the end. A quick stop in Kununurra to fuel up (both the car and myself), then straight out to Lake Argyle for some well-earned R&R.

Driving in gave me butterflies — the kind that come from knowing a magic sunset is on the cards. I set up camp on an unpowered site, claiming my own little patch of earth, grounding myself before popping open some sparkling wine (on ice, of course). Then… I waited.

And wow — that sunset delivered.

This was also the moment I documented just how easy my rooftop tent is to set up — small wins on the road! Over the weekend, I soaked it all in: a sunset cruise where I learned the dam holds 23 times the water of Sydney Harbour (and would take four years to empty — wild), and that around 35,000 freshwater crocs call it home.

Yes… I still went for a swim.

I wandered through the homestead, took in the history, floated in the infinity pool overlooking the vastness, read my book, and shared a few yarns with some great people I met along the way. Solo, but never really alone.

Kununurra: Work, Play & a Ride-A-Long

Next stop: K-town.

Picked up my third ride-a-long — my little cousin/brother Drew — who jumped in for the Uluru leg. With 10 days in Kununurra, we found a rhythm of remote work mixed with proper exploring. On arrival at our Caravan park site, we were confronted with an ambulance 40 metres from our camp attending a snake bite.  We found out from other campers it was a yellow belly black snake.

First Stop: Kelly’s Knob & the Hoochery

We had to start with Kelly’s Knob — a nod to our Uncle Kelly (RIP), who always reckoned it was named after him. Standing up there, looking out over Kununurra, you can see why he claimed it. Unreal views.

From there, a cruisy drive to the Hoochery Distillery for a paddle (or two) and a cheeky takeaway of rum and gin.

Second Stop: Chasing Waterfalls

They say don’t go chasing waterfalls… ignore that completely.

We chased them hard — Black Rock Falls, Molly Springs, The Grotto. Mud tracks, creek crossings, snakes, cattle… all part of the adventure. We really wanted to see the waterfalls but the snakes coming out of hibernation, didn’t deter us from our mission. Then those moments where you arrive — cool water, hidden pools, and waterfalls that make everything worth it.  You can hear them before you see them.

Black Rock Falls? 10/10. No debate.

Third Stop: Chasing Barra (or Trying To)

Armed with Google and YouTube “expertise,” we hit up Lily Pond, Elephant Rock, Crossing Falls, Ivanhoe Crossing…

Result? No barra.

So naturally, we went back to waterfalls. Middle Springs for a dip, then back to Black Rock Falls for guaranteed fun— because once wasn’t enough.

Fourth Stop: Chasing Sunsets in Wyndham

Mission: Five Rivers Lookout.

We headed to Wyndham early, dropped a line off the jetty (I caught the fish — just saying), then made our way up to the lookout. Camera rolling, champers on ice, and we watched one of the best horizon sunsets I’ve ever seen.

Pro tip: stay after the sun dips — that afterglow is something else.

Fifth Stop: Back to Lake Argyle

I had to take Drew back — no way I was keeping that place to myself. Quick stop at Crocodile Cave along the way, then back to soak in that magic again.

Sixth Stop: Keep River Barra Redemption

Just over the NT border, we geared up properly this time. Local tackle shop sorted us out, and Drew convinced me to try lure fishing (I wasn’t sold — give me a handline and bait any day).

But then… he landed two barra.

I’m officially a convert.

Even better, some local fellas wandered out of the bush with their own barra haul — proof the fish were definitely on. We took ours back and cooked up a fresh feed for our lovely hostess Di, who generously put us up and made us feel right at home.

Seventh Stop: Dunham River Drama

Feeling confident (maybe too confident), we went hunting for more fishing spots out near Dunham River.

A few kilometres in… trouble.

Soft mud. Max (my D-MAX) went down. Proper stuck.

Thankful for Starlink, I called for help. Within half an hour, backup arrived — but we had to abandon Max overnight. The next morning, the Kununurra rescue crew had me out and back on the road within two hours.

Lesson learned… maybe.

 

Reflections on Kununurra

This trip was different.

Usually I come to this country for work — in and out, no time to really be here. This time, I slowed down. Explored. Connected.

And what stood out most?
The people.  The kindness, the hospitality, the feeling of being welcomed — it felt like home.

So this isn’t goodbye, Kununurra…It’s “see you mob next time.”

Next stop: Uluru

Travel Stats
Odometer: 9760 → 10183

Distance travelled: 423 km

Stops along the way:
Halls Creek → Warmun→ Kununurra    Lake Argyle

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